Plans and directions for building simple DIY shelves for physical media:
I built these shelves in Spring 2025 using mainly reclaimed lumber. The basic design is not original to me, but I was so impressed by this design that I decided to build some myself. I think that the first place I saw the basic idea and demonstration of how to build shelves like these was at a Youtube channel called Cereal at Midnight (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2k7Tt8zJBkc) so I'll give them a shout-out.
These shelves are AWESOME! Why didn't I build these sooner!?
Shelves like these can hold DVDs, BluRays, CDs, video game cases or even paperback books. I designed my shelving unit to have a shelf to shelf vertical spacing of 8.5" to accommodate standard DVD cases as well as BluRays, CDs, video games, etc.
The way these shelves work is that the bottom of disc cases rest on the top of the cross-pieces, and the spine of the cases rest against the wall (you'll see...read on).
The plans for my shelves/space are 54" tall and 76.5" wide, and provide ~36 linear feet or ~11 meters of shelf space, including the top being used as a shelf. When I wrote this, my shelves held mixture of 862 BluRay cases, standard and slim DVD cases and boxed sets of various widths. I use standard bookends for discs on the top shelf.
The beauty of these shelves is that you can make yours to easily fit into any available space. Mine, for example, are in a closet.
Though I didn't have to deal with these for my project, make sure that any plans you draw up allow access to light switches and power outlets.

Here's how to build the shelves:
STEP 1: PLANNING
Here are the plans I drew up for my shelves, custom-fit for the space I had available (that drafting class I had in HS came through for me :-D).
Note: Distances between the upright posts can be any width you prefer, but be advised that once they get wider than about 3', the cross pieces will start to sag under the weight of the discs they support. I opted for vertical posts with spacing of about 2'. The 2' shelf widths also lined up with the shelf supports that were already in place in the closet where I built my shelves.
STEP 2: MATERIALS AND PREPARATION
These are the materials I used to make my shelves - all the wood and the L-brackets were reclaimed from an old wooden bed frame.
8 L-brackets (two for each 2x4 upright - any size L-bracket will work, their job is to attach the 2x4s to the wall, not bear weight)
Drywall anchor sleeves and screws (for attaching the L-brackets to the wall)
1 1/2" Wood screws (for attaching 1x2 cross pieces to the 2x4 uprights)
3/8" Tapered wood plugs to cover countersunk screw heads
One 8.5" long board that I used to measure shelf heights
Clamp (you won't need this if you have someone helping you)
1) Cut wood to length
2) Cut a notch in one end of each 2x4 to accommodate the wall's baseboard (see the photo below)
3) Attach the L-brackets to the 2x4s (two per board)
4) Use drywall sleeves and screws to attach each 2x4 to the wall - be sure to use a level to make sure they are perfectly vertical.
Note: I ran into a problem during this step. I thought my drywall was attached to a standard framed wall, but it was attached to the inner cement wall of my house's foundation, and my drill struck cement only about 1" in. So, I used some side cutters to clip off the tips of the drywall sleeves to that length (see photo below). After drilling pilot holes for them, I tapped the drywall sleeves into place, and inserted 1" screws through the L-brackets' holes, and it worked great!
5) You can see the vertical 2x4 posts attached to the wall in the photo below. As you work, be sure to measure twice, level twice, mark once and drill once so you don't end up causing unnecessary damage to your wall.
6) Attach one end of one of the 76.5" 1"x4" boards to the base of the vertical 2x4 post at one end of the shelves, and then, after checking with a level, attach the other end. Once that's done, insert a screw through the baseboard into the other upright 2x4 posts. The baseboard keeps the discs off of the floor, and keeps them from picking up dirt or carpet fuzz.
7) Attach the horizontal 1x2 cross pieces as shown in the photos below. I strongly recommend drilling pilot holes for each wood screw. If you don't do this, the 1x2s have a tendency to split. If you are working solo (like I did) you can support one end of a 1x2 with a clamp, and keep the vertical spacing between shelves consistent by using a vertical spacer/template (mine was 8.5" tall). After you tack one end of a 1x2 in place, go to the other end, use the vertical spacer and a level to make sure it's at the right height and then drill a pilot hole and tack it into place. Repeat this procedure for each 1x2 cross-piece.
8) Attach the other 76.5" 1"x4" board to the top of the shelf unit, drilling pilot holes down into the top of each vertical 2x4 post.
At this point, if you don't mind seeing exposed screw heads, tighten all screws and you're done. But, if you prefer a more finished look, then do the following to add wood plugs to cover the screw heads.
9) Remove each screw connecting 1x2 cross pieces, one at a time, and use a 3/8" drill bit to counter-sink each drilled hole to a depth of no more than 1/2". Then reinsert the screw and seat is securely. Next, gently tap a 3/8" tapered wood plug into the countersunk space (see the photo below). These plugs can be glued into place as well, but I didn't see a reason to do this. Repeat for each exposed screw.
COST:
I already had the lumber and most of the hardware, so I only needed to buy wall anchors and wood plugs, so my total cost was about $10.00.
If you need to buy everything, including lumber and hardware then, based on prices at Home Depot in Oct 2026, and for the least expensive pine board and furring strips, shelves this size would cost ABOUT $60 for the cheapest pine boards.
YOU'RE DONE!
THE FINISHED SHELVES
My plans, including using the top as an additional shelf, yield ~36 feet or 10.97 meters of shelf space. This is enough space for about 785 regular sized DVD cases, 915 BluRay cases or 1570 slim DVD cases.
You can, of course, paint or stain your shelves, but since mine live in a closet where the doors are normally closed, I opted to leave the wood in my shelves unfinished.